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First of all, please note that this and all processes are neither endorsed or suggested. They are simply presented as information. What the reader chooses to do with the information is entirely their own decision.
1. Disconnect the battery and only then disconnect all wiring to the motor from the body. Senders, ignition, generator and such. No need to disconnect the starter or starter wiring.
2. Disconnect the fuel lines at the fuel pump.
3. Remove the large rear pan.
4. Disconnect the shift linkage connector that is under the cover between the rear seats. Don’t forget this part or you will really damage things later!
5. Loosen the rear wheel lugs. I like to remove the rear wheels as it makes it easer to move around under the car but it isn’t required.
6. Lift the car. To do so, jack the car up as high as you can with a floor jack using the tranny center at the differential box as a lifting point. I use a disk of plywood and a patch of old carpet in the jack cup to protect the case. with the car as high as the jack will go use 2 jack stands and a 2X4 as long as the car is wide support the car by putting the 2X4 under the rear floor pan seam. (The seam, NOT the pan. The point where the rear seat pan ends) Set the jack stands under the 2X4 about 3 feet apart. Now remove the floor jack from the transmission and jack the car higher using the center of the 2X4. You will be able to get the car nice and high this way. Raise the floor stands up to again meet the 2X4 and remove the floor jack. The car is stable, high enough, you only need one jack and never had to get under the car while lifting it.
7. Remove the rear wheels if you like.
8. Remove the sheet metal that the license plate is on. You will need to remove the rear chrome bumpers to do this.
9. Loosen the front transmission bolts. Do not remove them; just back them out 3 turns or so.
10. Disconnect all the heater stuff, hoses, control wires to the flapper boxes and anything else you see that runs from the car to the motor. Check to see if there are any mounting straps to the tail pipes ect. (Remove nothing off the transmission, as it will stay. No need to remove the CV joints or starter ether)
11. Put the floor jack under the center of the motor case and put a little upward pressure on it, then remove the rear motor mount bolts.
12. Check that the shift link in the rear seat is disconected and only then Lower the motor about 3 inches.
13. Lean in and remove the front most piece of motor tin. This is the one that sticks up over the top of the transmission. It is held in place with 4 cheese heads.
14. Get a flat cargo strap that is about 1 inch wide, run it under the transmission right behind the bell housing. Tie it off on the top of the rear strut towers inside the motor compartment and cinch it up tight. This will support the transmission after you remove the motor. I use one with hooks on each end. If you bend the hooks about 45 deg to one side they will hook right around the top of the shock
15. Lower the motor until SOME of the weight is off the jack. The strap will stretch some thus giving you some more room to work with. Now slide under the car and remove the 2 lower motor/trans nuts. Then remove the 2 bolts on top. One is a starter-mounting bolt as well.
16. Jack the motor up or down until the motor isn’t lifting the trans and the trans isn’t lifting the motor.
17. Now you can pull the motor gently off the trans and lower it to the floor and then roll it right out the back. Use the tail pipes as handles. Bolt on the motor stand bracket and only now do you need to get a friend to help you lift the bugger into the stand. You can also strip the motor down some and tip the stand over and connect the mount to the motor. Then it is easy to right the motor now mounted onto the stand without any extra help.
One jack, one person and the second time you do it you can do it in 40 minutes or less. You can remove and install a transmission single-handed as well just pull the motor then use the same jack to go after the trans.
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